Warning about Nexus Mod Manager.

This utility for managing mods for Bethesda games is not safe to use.

1.  I have received clarification that no mod has the ability to deal with this issue so I'm deleting it from this post.  The second issue is still valid.

2.  If your skyrim.esm file disappears, you will get this error message

This has been set up so that the only way you can close this application is to open the task manager and force the the application to close.

Regarding the specifics of that error message, the file syntax describing where the file is supposed to be is not correct.  Both of the reasons given in that error message  for that master file disappearing are false.  There are also problems with grammar.

In addition, NMM then sometimes deletes the contents of a file in your appdata/skyrim folder called plugins.txt.  There is no easy way to undo that damage to your computer.  I did get a response from another user that reinstalling NMM fixed this for her.

Edit:  I tested this several times before discontinuing as a beta tester for this.  The issue with plugins.txt occurs, but not 100% of the time.  It still needs to be fixed.


IN CONCLUSION

Nexus Mod Manager is not safe to use.  The second issue I reported in this blog post is one that the creators of that manager introduced themselves and is an intentional design on their part rather than an actual bug.

May 10, 2012.  DarkOne posted on a thread on the official forums that this issue was addressed in the last update. He did not say how this was addressed.

May 20, 2012  Since I'm seeing that there are still complaints about the contents of plugins.txt disappearing, I have to assume that that issue has not been addressed and I am going back to my opinion that this tool is not safe to use.

Self Draping Shawl

I added some length and a ruffle to the one pictured above.  It looks much nicer than it did before in the picture below.

After I get the cast on and increases finished I will be adding the Feza Premier Alp. I am using Caron Simply Soft Paints for the first part of this shawl.  I am using size 9 needles now, the picture was with size 7 and it is just too tight a knit. 

I did start with the Feza and it just didn’t look right at the beginning. I had the Caron in my stash.

I’m working up a pattern that I plan to publish. I have made several of these, but this is the only one I currently have a picture of.

Since I’m ambidextrous, I need to make changes where one handed and ambidextrous knitting differ.

sl (ambidextrous) = put yarn behind needles, sl as if to knit, bring yarn back in front of needles

sl (one handed) = put yarn in front of needles, sl as if to purl, bring yarn back in back of needles

k = knit
p = purl
pm = place marker
m 1 = however you want, if I want a mitered look I will use kfb (knit front and back). If I want it invisible I will do a make one by using my needle to grab the post from the previous row and knitting that instead of grabbing the line between the stitches. Greengirl has an excellent video on how to do this stitch.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Zdl76RbncM&feature=yo...

SET UP (This is a garter tab with a 5 stitch border. For a video on how to do these see:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p300ODqDWjA )
cast on 5 stitches (provisional).

Left and Right Handed instructions

Knit one row, Purl one row- 8 to 10 

Knit 8 to 10 rows. one handed (garter st.)
row 1 Knit 5, pick up 4 st. on side and 5 on other end.
row 2 . - P4, sl 1, pm, p1, pm, p1, pm, p1, pm, p1, pm, sl 1, p4

(you should have a marker on each side of the 4 stitches you picked up on the side) you should have 14 st. on the needles

PATTERN

R 1 Knit
R 2 p4, sl 1, k to last 5 st, sl 1, p 4
R 3 (Increase Row)
R 4 p 4, sl 1, p to last 5 st, sl 1, p 4

For this shawl it will be a 4 row repeat with the increases on R 3.

Increase 1 each section 1 st, 4 per row (repeat this increase row 2x in the 4 row pattern) after inc 1 = 18 st on needles (k1, m1), 2 = 22 (k1, m1, k1), 3 = 26 (k1, m1, k2) there will be 4 sts in each of 4 sections.

Increase 2 each section 2 st. 1 after first st, and 1 before last st. of each section until 20 st. in each section. you will have 80 st. after last increase (4 sections)

next row make sure there is a marker every 10 st.

now you have 8 sections

Increase 3: each section 2 st. 1 after first st, and 1 before last st. of each section until 20 st. in each section. you will have 160 st. after last increase

next row make sure there is a marker every 10 st.

now you have 16 sections

Increase 4: each section 2 st. 1 after first st, and 1 before last st. of each section until 20 st. in each section. you will have 320 st. after last increase

One Handed (Either Right or Left handed knitting.

Knit 8 to 10 rows. one handed (garter st.)
row 1 Knit 5, pick up 4 st. on side and 5 on other end.
row 2 - k4, sl 1, pm, k1, pm, k1, pm, k1, pm, k1, pm, sl1, k4 

(you should have a marker on each side of the 4 stitches you picked up on the side) you should have 14 st. on the needles

PATTERN

R 1 Knit
R 2 k4, s 1, p to last 5 st, sl 1, k 4 one handed
R 3 (Increase Row)
R 4 k 4, sl 1, k to last 4 st, sl 1, p 4 one handed

For this shawl it will be a 4 row repeat with the increases on R 3.

Increase 1 each section 1 st, 4 per row (repeat this increase row 2x in the 4 row pattern) after inc 1 = 18 st on needles (k1, m1), 2 = 22 (k1, m1, k1), 3 = 26 (k1, m1, k2) there will be 4 sts in each of 4 sections.

Increase 2 each section 2 st. 1 after first st, and 1 before last st. of each section until 20 st. in each section. you will have 80 st. after last increase (4 sections)

next row make sure there is a marker every 10 st.

now you have 8 sections

Increase 3: each section 2 st. 1 after first st, and 1 before last st. of each section until 20 st. in each section. you will have 160 st. after last increase

next row make sure there is a marker every 10 st.

now you have 16 sections

Increase 4: each section 2 st. 1 after first st, and 1 before last st. of each section until 20 st. in each section. you will have 320 st. after last increase

At this point you have enough sts. for a scarf. Unless you are using fingering weight or smaller yarn, you don’t need any other increases. Just keep adding rows until you have the length of shawl you want.

I have never stopped at this point.  This next one I am making will be a feather and fan pattern after I have finished the increases.  I will add the chart as soon as I know that it works.

@ Cathleen Bang Anderson 2012

Marengo sweater

I finished this sweater for my daughter in May. The pattern is by Berroco. I rewrote the pattern to suit my own knitting style and while I was doing it found numerous issues with the pattern that I had to edit so that the sweater would turn out.

Berroco's response when I contacted them, "We are sorry you did not understand the pattern." I expect that patterns I purchase with money to be perfect with no errors. This book has several patterns and each and every one of them has problems. I won't be purchasing any more patterns from Berroco.

Gluten Intolerance

I just confirmed that I have this by process of elimination. I have labs schedule in August and they will also do the blood work to test for Celiac Disease.

Latest hat.

I just finished this hat up today. It is shorter than the previous ones that I have made.

A dream

I would love to see a building that has a warm water therapy pool on one end, a drop in center/coffee shop/ general store with wi fi in the middle, and a rollerskating rink/ martial arts practice area on the other end.

The pool would be the same size as the one at the Courage Center in Stillwater, Minnesota and would also have the features of the pool at Impact Physical Medicine in St. Paul, Minnesota added into it.

There would be a see through, sound proof wall between the roller skating rink and the rest of the building.

Alternate Start, Luna Moth Shawl

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Foundation rows
K1
Row 1 (turn) Kf&b
Row 2 (turn) Kf&b, K1
Row 3 (turn) Kf&b, K1, Kf&b
Row 4 P url back with other hand (insert markers on each side of middle stitch )
Row 5 Kf&b, K3, Kf&b
Row 6 Purl back with other hand
Row 7 Kf&b, K5, Kf&b
Row 8 Purl back with other hand
Row 9 K4, yo, K1, yo, K4
Row 10 P4, K to last 4 st., P4 (with other hand)
Row 11 K4, yo, k1, yo, K1, yo, k1, yo, K4
row 12 rep. Row 10
Row 13 K4, yo, k2tog, k1 ,yo, K1, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, K4
Row 14 rep row 10

The replaces the provisional cast on portion of the pattern at Elann.com

When you start with that pattern you will need to remember that I have added two additional stitches. Each row will start and end with knit 4 instead of knit 3.

I also replaced the stitch k3tog with k2sps. (Knit 2, slip stitch back, pass next stitch over, slip stitch back again).

The part of this post that comes before this copyright notice, I do claim copyright for.

copyright @ 2009

Cathleen Bang Anderson

The original pattern can be found here.


http://www.elann.com/ShowFreePattern.asp?Id=208024

January 28, 2010

I just started the first repeat of the sequence yesterday. After doing the math, I figured out that in order for the pattern to work properly, I need to add the repeat parts of each row 2 additional times. That part of the row is 10 stitches. Each sequence adds 40 stitches, which means I need to increase each side by 20 each time I add a new pattern sequence.

This is not explicit in the pattern, which is why I had to do the math and figure it out for myself.